FDM
Fused Deposition Modeling. This is the common filament style of 3D printing where plastic filament is melted and placed down layer by layer.
Simple definitions for common 3D printing words beginners will see when choosing a printer, slicing a model, and fixing print problems.

Fused Deposition Modeling. This is the common filament style of 3D printing where plastic filament is melted and placed down layer by layer.
Software that turns a 3D model into printer instructions. Examples include Creality Print, Cura, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, and Bambu Studio.
The instruction file that tells the printer where to move, how hot to get, how fast to print, and how much filament to push out.
The small metal tip where melted filament comes out. A common beginner nozzle size is 0.4 mm.
The heated part of the printer that melts filament before it exits the nozzle.
The part that pushes filament into the hotend. It controls how much plastic is fed into the printer.
The flat surface the print sticks to while printing. It may also be called the bed.
A build plate that warms up to help the first layer stick better.
A cover or case around the printer. It helps control temperature, reduce drafts, and can help with ABS and ASA.
Adjusting or measuring the build plate so the nozzle stays the right distance from the bed while printing.
A printer feature that measures the bed surface and helps compensate for small height differences.
The fine adjustment that controls how close the nozzle is to the bed for the first layer.
The first plastic layer placed on the build plate. A good first layer is one of the most important parts of a successful print.
How well the print sticks to the build plate. Poor adhesion can cause lifting, warping, or failed prints.
When the corners or edges of a print lift off the bed as the material cools and shrinks.
The thickness of each printed layer. Lower layer heights look smoother but take longer to print.
The inside structure of a print. More infill can add strength but uses more filament and time.
The number of outer walls printed around the part. More walls can make a print stronger.
Temporary material printed under overhangs or floating areas so the model does not fail.
A thin extra outline attached to the bottom of a print to help it stick better to the build plate.
A thicker removable base printed under the model. It can help with adhesion but uses more material.
When the printer pulls filament back slightly to reduce stringing while moving between areas.
A setting that controls how much filament the printer pushes out. Too much or too little can affect print quality.
How fast the printer moves while printing. Slower speeds can improve quality, especially for beginners.
The plastic material used by FDM printers. It comes on a spool and is fed into the printer.
A beginner-friendly filament that is easy to print and good for basic projects, decor, toys, and prototypes.
A stronger filament than PLA that is useful for practical parts, but it can string more and needs better tuning.
A tougher, more heat-resistant filament that usually needs an enclosure and ventilation.
A weather-resistant material often used for outdoor parts. It is more advanced and usually needs an enclosure.
A flexible filament used for grips, bumpers, feet, and soft parts. It prints slower and can be harder to feed.
A liquid material used in resin printers. It can make very detailed prints but requires gloves, washing, curing, and ventilation.
A device that warms filament to remove moisture. Wet filament can cause popping, stringing, and rough prints.
Thin plastic hairs between parts of a print. It can come from high temperature, wet filament, or retraction settings.
When the print suddenly moves out of alignment, usually from belt tension, speed, collision, or mechanical issues.
When filament cannot flow correctly through the nozzle. It can cause clicking, weak extrusion, or missing lines.
When the printer does not push out enough filament, causing gaps, weak layers, or thin lines.
When the printer pushes out too much filament, causing blobs, rough surfaces, or thick lines.
The visible horizontal lines created by each printed layer. They are normal, but settings can make them more or less visible.
Use the beginner guide to choose a printer, pick material, slice your first model, and start printing.